Saturday, September 21, 2013

Istanbul, Leeds, London, Nebraska, & Idaho: The Automobile, Public Spaces, and the Quest for Community


On a recent bus trip around Turkey, I sought out public spaces, finding them in most of the large cities we visited, particularly along tourist attractions and water fronts (Canakkale, Ismir).  And, while tourist economies help fuel visits to the sidewalk cafes (near the bazars), coffee shops lining prime routes to public attractions (the Blue mosque in Istanbul) or parks along the water (Ismir), the locals seemed to provide the foundation for the community life represented there.  People also lived close to most of these places where street and “village” life exists.  Moving away from such spots, the public life declined and the automobile took over, which you can see leaving Istanbul or Ismir.  Even in smaller places, such as Cappadocia, spreading out the population led to a less visible public life.   

Prior to my visit to Istanbul, I was in London, and before that in Leeds.  Both are vibrant cities, in some places and at some times.  This latter point is often missing.  While Times Square ion New York City may “never sleep,” and similar spots in London have almost constant life, constant activity is a rarity and we should not expect to measure the life of our urban area by whether or not public spaces are constantly inhabited, packed with life.  Leeds, a smaller but quite substantial older city in Yorkshire, Great Britain, is an example.  Built before the automobile, it has the ambience provided by elegant old buildings and arcades that connect the streets.  Wisely, the city “fathers” blocked off a couple of connecting streets so that a network of walkways and pedestrian paths connects the center of the city and attract the city’s residents and visitors alike.  This is what most cities, large or small, covet in their redevelopment efforts.  The public “investment” is matched by retail stores and services and professional offices that are supported in part by an old fashioned public market similar to the West Side Market in Cleveland—specialized vendors in glorious old buildings and lining outdoor stalls.  In Leeds, the newer immigrants from across Europe, and Asia, have set up shop in these areas, providing novelty to accompany British history represented by the original venue. But visit these public spaces on Sunday morning or late at night, and, the shops closed, public life recedes into private spaces.  Still, it’s an outcome to be sought by other communities, and, with numerous empty spots in the public market, even here there’s the hint that retaining this vital public space is a challenge. The automobile arrived in Leeds long ago too, though this traveler arrived by train from London.

Back in London, I traveled by bus and by foot, generally the latter.  Doing so, I found myself lost a couple times as I tried to discover short cuts or decided to do my hour+ morning walk in a different direction.  I must say that London’s age and subsequent decisions have sustained a better representation of public spaces throughout the center city than I had expected.  But, even here, now and then the automobile drew people away from such a lifestyle.

This weekend, I returned to Idaho for the first time in five years, arriving at the Boise airport during a dark, rainy night.  Renting a car, I was disoriented in leaving the area, which has built up so much that I wondered whether the valley had become one big metro area.  A few minutes later, I encountered a few spots still devoid of commercial activity, but I’m sure over time these too will fill in as Interstate 84 linking Boise and its immediate suburbs (Garden City, Meridian) extends to Nampa, and then on to Caldwell.  I visited what passes for “historic” sites from my youth during my stay.  I had planned to stay at the Sundowner Motel in on 10th Street because it allowed me to walk around downtown and on to nearby neighborhoods, maybe even stop for a late beer or glass of wine late at night without using the rental car.  When I came over the bridge late at night, I found the Sundowner closed, and it was the last surviving place to stay without returning to the hotels and motels along the Interstate.  Since both of the habitable motels near Caldwell were booked up, I had to drive on towards Nampa for a place to stay, returning the second night to the closer Best Western Hotel.  And, while five years ago I could find a few places downtown to have a beer,  cup of coffee or a bite at various hours, this time the central area had become almost devoid of such private third places.  The next morning I searched and finally found one coffee shop run by some young folks at the Bird’s Nest who reminded me of local developers in my Cleveland center city neighborhood.  There were a couple taco/Mexican restaurants and two Chinese restaurants left, but often they weren’t open.  The public investment downtown was impressive, with considerable funds to uncover Indian Creek, provide pleasant sidewalks and sitting areas, little parks nestled here and there.  But there was little else to attract people.  The Indian Creek Festival was held while I was there and it did attract several thousand folks to the area for a cardboard boat race, food booths, public service tables, face painting for the kids, etc. but that lasted part of one day.  Then they rolled up the sidewalks again.  At the class reunion I talked with a fellow classmate/prominent city father/retired businessman, and he said they were trying but it was difficult.  I suggested housing above the stores so you could integrate residential with potential retail, but he said the cost was not attractive to developers.  Even the mall between Caldwell and Nampa has lost its most important anchors—Macy’s & Penney’s—to a mall along the freeway closer to Boise.  I drove over to downtown Nampa to see if it was faring better but discovered a similar depressed situation downtown, though it still has a small motel where someone could stay.  Thus, the small town faces the same obstacles as big city central areas and neighborhoods.

I think people our literature promoting third places and vibrant public spaces is actually a search for community.  While the village life persists in more rural areas, perhaps, and also exists in urban areas when density, important “destinations” and attracting public spaces coalesce, it’s an elusive goal in an automobile culture.  Even more rural Cappadocia was beginning to spread out with development to serve the tourists, so our hotel was distant in walking terms from such public spaces.   Only when constrained by history and geography do communities manage to maintain a walking culture over time.

I think we need to look at public spaces less as a cure for what ails communities and as an ingredient that needs to be integrated thoughtfully in planning and sometimes abandoned as impractical.  I still hope Leeds retains the life in its marvelous public market and doesn’t lose businesses in the less traveled areas of its arcades, and it’s likely to be a struggle as people move more towards the outskirts.  One key is integration, not just of people, but of functions.  Delightful public spaces should be developed for the locals, and then attract tourists as an added benefit (with exceptions of course in major tourist destinations).  That means we need residential areas integrated with public spaces, shopping with living, public with private services, uses needed by the old and services attracting the young.  I remember years ago an architect noting that single-purpose neighborhoods force people to “move” as they progress through the life cycle.  A suburb with large homes and no apartments provides no place to downsize.  Old neighborhoods with houses filled by families with 12 kids a century ago had to be converted to multiple apartments to survive, so it’s not a new occurrence. 

Perhaps we need to revisit the concept behind the “7-mile town” that I recall studying in my geography class a half century ago.  When man traveled by horse, a town, or stop of some sort was needed about every seven miles.  Thus, many rural areas are dotted with the remnants of such 7-mile towns.  On my last trip to Nebraska, Bayard, the community near where I was born and went to school illustrates this.  Bridgeport, the county seat of Morrill County in western Nebraska has fared better because it still has a “reason for being,” the government offices an courthouse.  Some 15 or so miles away, Bayard, has no such “reason,” having lost its sugar beet factory and almost all of its retail establishments, leaving a bedroom community of folks who now travel the highway to Sottsbluff for their commercial needs. In between are other small 7 mile towns, or corner stops equivalent to convenience stores in cities today, e.g., Moomaw Corners (wiped off the map), Minatare, with a bar or two).  The automobile eliminated the “need” to settle, or stop, in such places.

I wonder if we need to ask whether there’s a distance between “needed” third places or public spaces for congregating.  And how do we learn what these distances are.  When I was a graduate student at the University of Washington in Seattle in the late 1960s, the university had given up on trying to get students to walk where they wanted them to, on concrete sidewalks planned to connect buildings in an aesthetic manner. So, when students (and probably a few faculty too) wore a new path through the grass or dirt, they laid down a patch of asphalt.  Thus, the network looked like patchwork, but it did work, meeting the needs of students, who knew where they wanted to go and didn’t need it “planned” for them.  Maybe this scenario could work for designing third places in urban areas, particularly when buildings are demolished and vacant lots start to dot the landscape.  When people “loiter,” they are asking for a public space for congregating.  When a group decides a vacant lot would be a good garden, given permission or not, they’re seeking not just vegetables and cheap food but a place to create community within their physical community.   There have to be other, additional strategies for making the decisions, and such a combination of “bottom up/grassroots” indicators and “top down/planning-and-communication theory” might just fit the bill.  We always need to remember that the quest for community is a search not only for a sense of belonging but also for a communication network, however big or small it is. 
  

 

Friday, July 5, 2013

Russians, Riding Balloons, Early Christians, Whirling Dervishes, Changing Alphabets, & a "Rosetta Stone"

 
It doesn't take long in Antalya, Turkey, to learn that Russians not only are coming, they're coming in groves.  This town on the Mediterranean has a beach and sun that draws Russian tourists by the plane full.  A day wading in the pools of water covering the calcium deposits not far away or visiting the old town of Antalya, one hears Russians frequently.  They live only a couple hours away by plane, so it's a natural. Here are a couple shots of the photogenic area.



The attraction that drew me to Turkey in the first place was Cappadocia, where it's moon-like landscape and cave churches/dwellings are fascinating not only visually but also for what they teach us about the early Christians that inhabited the area in the first millenium.  I first viewed the landscape during a balloon ride early in the morning, so I'll begin with that, then add a couple other shots to give some flavor of the area.
 
 

 
One of the biggest attractions are the churches in which the early Christians lived.  Learned that they churches had multiple levels, a kitchen and cooking area, a washing area, and the church worship area.  Thus, the early Christians lived in their churches, carved out of these limestone formations.  Some of the best of hundreds that survive are in the Cappadocia area, where the Greek Orthodox murals are visible.  Since most people were illiterate at that time, the murals told the stories of the old and new testiments.  Here are a couple shots of the churches, with the front of one collapsed, showing us some of the inside (photography was prohibited inside the churches).
 

 
 
Though they're a religious group. the Whirling Dervishes are seen by tourists as entertainment.  Our guide, a knowledgeable and instructive fellow, warned us that it was a religious event, not a performance.  They hold their event in a refurbished "caravanserai" (essentially, a combo of Motel 6 and truck stop for caravans on the silk road) and are worth the visit.  They literally just "whirl" in costumes, broken up by bowing accompanied by music.  Videos or photography during the performances was prohibited but I'll provide a couple shots of the site.  Though "nominally" moslems, their philosophy and practices are more reminiscent of Buddhists or Hindu's.
 



 
 
Finally, while touring the museum accompanying Ataturk's mausoleum, ran across materials on the introduction of a new alphabet for Turkish, and later at the Anatolian Museum, a "rosetta" stone (much like the one I saw early on this trip at the British Museum) where the same message was carved in languages of the Egyptians (hieroglypics) and the Hittites, both contained within a stone "envelope." 
 

 
Here's the "stone letter and envelope."


 
More another time but I have a 6 o'clock wake up call so I'll call it quits.
 
 
 
 

 

Monday, June 24, 2013

Big Houses, Churchill War Rooms, Connecting with Friends through History

Before leaving Leeds, I took a bus trip outside to the country to look at one of the country estates, complete with an upstairs, downstairs story and tended gardens.  Like many families, the current Queen Elizabeth's aunt (Princess) Alice's family had to open up their estate after the War (II) when England started levying heavy taxes.  While I was there, thousands of town folk were out for an antique car show on the grounds, while others walked through the servants quarters downstairs and the magnificent first floor rooms; the current family still lives on the upper floor.  Here are a couple photos.

the house

the vew our back
downstair servants area
 
Back in London, I was drawn to the Churchill War Rooms, some intact from when they were abandoned after the war, some refurbished from photos.  Didn't realize the BBC had its own small room for broadcasting down there during WWII.  Also enjoyed a recording of a conversation between Churchill and FDR about the surrender terms (neither wanted to allow serial surrendering).  A couple photos.
 
where the brass operated
 
the secretarial pool
 
the Philippine campaign map
 
Conferences also are time to see old friends, and touch bases with history.
 
Kim Neuendorf, Carolyn Lin and Dave Atkin near Buckingham Palace on a long trek...

Anup Kumar in front of the second oldest licensed Pub in London, after viewing the spoils of imperial power in the British National Museum.
 
 
Finally, just a couple shots of London today,
 
the classic British phone booth and a bobby on stilts.
 
banners celebrating the 60th year of Queen Elizabeth's rein

underground and familiar sight on the river near Parliament
 
a "few" Arabic papers on the street in the neighborhood where the conference was held...
 
 


tradition continues near Buckingham Palace

view of old London "suburbs" from train on way to Gatwick Airport.
 
 

  

Sunday, June 23, 2013

Urban Communication in Leeds




Had a great time at the Urban Communication Conference in Leeds that preceded the ICA conference in London.  For several reasons.

First, Leeds is a walkable, historic city with a marvelous city market reminescent of the West Side Market in Cleveland, though it's much bigger. 

Second, the conference itself at the University of Leeds drew a good group, including the venerable Jay Blumler, who spent some time with Michael Gurevitch at Cleveland State back in the days when I was a young faculty member.  We had a couple of fine chats, and I attended his session, where he did a "fight song" for the conference that was quite amusing.

Third, I learned that there's local and there's local when it comes to beer.  I was told that most of the pubs serve the top dozen or two of popular brews in England, or parts there of, but it I wanted to get really local beer, meaning that brewed in the city of Leeds itself, I had to visit one of two spots.  Following my inclinations to support local businesses, I found the Brew Spot,, I believe that was it was called, in a two-story old brick building near the train station.  Some 20 somethings were brewing several beers and had a regular following.

Fourth, Leeds is not only walkable but it's a city of arcades, beautiful links between streets from which traffic had been evicted and full of a diverse set of shops, including some fairly high end ones in the Victorian Arcade.

Time for some photos to document the event and the city.

the conference at the University of Leeds
 
Jay Blumler, 89, who makes this ol' 68 year old feel young and still able to think about an active future.
 


a couple of phtos of the Leed City Market, including a taste of Yorkshire.
 
 
 
 

 
The Lord Mayor of Leeds welcomed us to the city in the historic city "hall," inviting some members of the Urban Communication Foundation board into the room that the Queen occupies when she comes to town.  And finallly, we have a picture of the Mayor of Leeds with the Communicative City Mayor Gary Gumpert.
 
 

finally, I have to show a couple photos of the incredible arcades that connect the walkable streets, and all of them are full of retailers of one sort or another.

 
 
 

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Paper Making Links to Past and Present

This past weekend I took a two-day papermaking workshop at The Morgan, one of those marvelous institutions created when an ol' guy with great values left his fortune and an old factory building on E. 47th Street in Cleveland to celebrate book culture.  It was a wonderful, messy time working with cotton, hemp and flax pulp, the first in not ony white but blue, yellow, red and green. 

Ironically, this was not the first time I had tried to make paper.  When I was an undergraduate at the University of Idaho, I took a graphics course that included a small paper-making exercise (using toilet paper for pulp, if I recall correctly), type setting using a California job case (setting our business cards), and more. 

The Morgan also has the old job cases and printing set up that I encountered again last year on my return visit to the Philippines, where I visited the same plant where we printed the Special Gazette newspaper some 40+ years ago.

So experiences seem to tie different periods of my life together, once again.

Tomorrow I leave for Europe, for two conferences in England, followed by a trip to Turkey, landing in its Megacity, Istanbul, at a time there's considerable turmoil to see, encounter or avoid.  Should prove interesting.

June 11, 2013

Thursday, April 11, 2013

Newspapers, Management and Old Dogs



April 9, 2013

Twice while visiting the Reno-Carson City area, I’ve been reminded of the link between “literature” and journalism.  The first time I was walking along the main street in Virginia City when I spotted a faded sign painted on the side of an old store front referring to the Territorial Enterprise and its star writer, Mark Twain.  Today, while walking along the main street in another quaint frontier town, one founded by Mormons who were anticipating life in what they thought would be part of Utah, I saw another historical sign noting that the Territorial Enterprise newspaper was founded in this small town, Genoa; the paper moved to Virginia City two years later.  I had just picked up three copies of community and county papers, The Record-Courier and the Nevada Appeal, each for 50 cents, and the free monthly, Nataqua News.  And, checking my email messages, I found a headline that the Cleveland Plain Dealer was, as forecast and feared by newspaper lovers, cutting home delivery to three days a week, leaving us to forage for the paper on the other four days at corner stores and gas stations.  The PD’s dated management, the Newhouse chain, has decided to follow an archaic path relying on “clicking” methodology for its economic model rather than putting the news behind a fire wall and charging what it’s worth as other newspapers are doing.  This way, apparently, they figure they eventually can fire the reporters and probably use canned crap and soft features that attract readers, abandoning the paper’s historic role of serving local residents so they can be informed in a democracy.  Clicking methodology rewards the type of “stuff” that people “share” on Facebook and post on YouTube—“news” stories and photos/videos featuring the unusual, the bizarre, and generally available consumer information or celebrity activity. On my visit I’ve read the daily newspaper of Reno, the Reno Gazette Journal, in a city with 227,511 residents in a metro area with a population of 433,843.  Cleveland’s city population is about 400,000 in a metro area with about 2 million residents but the PD management can’t manage to provide seven-day-a-week delivery.  Guess you get what “management” thinks you deserve, not what you need for citizenship.  The operative word is consumer, not resident, voter, citizen or neighbor.

I seem to be linked to institutions run by arrogant leadership that has decided it knows what’s best for those it is supposed to serve, with no need to listen to them or respond to their wishes.  Like the Plain Dealer, Cleveland State University is currently suffering from a president who has decided to shove down the throats of faculty and students a course schedule and curriculum plan that will penalize students and do precisely the opposite of what he claims is his stated goal of making it easier for students to graduate.  And he is being backed by a group of trustees who are following like little blind mice, with a willful ignorance of the wishes of students and willingness to believe that faculty are ignorant or uninformed and, of course, lazy.  Friends and colleagues have told me that I clearly retired at the right time, avoiding the personal impact this decision would have had on me.  But, in addition to the part time teaching that I continue to do, I also have a strong commitment to the institution to which I have given more than 35 years of my productive life.  I was on the joint interest-based group of faculty and administrators working cooperatively to see that student interests were served and students would be left unharmed and “made whole” in the switch from quarters to semesters.  This time the administration has demonstrated no such cooperation, and even the minor players in administration---assistant deans, administrative appointees from the president down to faculty, have poorly served the university and students, refusing to listen and actively recruiting support for the conclusion they had already made without consulting the facts.

Meanwhile, visiting with friends, I’ve had a chance to consult with a fellow traveler in communication whose experiences abroad have been diverse and productive, leading me to think he would be a good candidate to ask the impertinent and unexpected question on a paper I’m writing on “communication in megacities.”  Unlike the Plain Dealer management and CSU’s autocratic administration, I’m soliciting input that could impact my decisions on this project.   

Some old dogs can still learn and be flexible.   

Leo W. Jeffres, Ph.D.
Professor Emeritus of Communication
Cleveland State University