Saturday, September 21, 2013

Istanbul, Leeds, London, Nebraska, & Idaho: The Automobile, Public Spaces, and the Quest for Community


On a recent bus trip around Turkey, I sought out public spaces, finding them in most of the large cities we visited, particularly along tourist attractions and water fronts (Canakkale, Ismir).  And, while tourist economies help fuel visits to the sidewalk cafes (near the bazars), coffee shops lining prime routes to public attractions (the Blue mosque in Istanbul) or parks along the water (Ismir), the locals seemed to provide the foundation for the community life represented there.  People also lived close to most of these places where street and “village” life exists.  Moving away from such spots, the public life declined and the automobile took over, which you can see leaving Istanbul or Ismir.  Even in smaller places, such as Cappadocia, spreading out the population led to a less visible public life.   

Prior to my visit to Istanbul, I was in London, and before that in Leeds.  Both are vibrant cities, in some places and at some times.  This latter point is often missing.  While Times Square ion New York City may “never sleep,” and similar spots in London have almost constant life, constant activity is a rarity and we should not expect to measure the life of our urban area by whether or not public spaces are constantly inhabited, packed with life.  Leeds, a smaller but quite substantial older city in Yorkshire, Great Britain, is an example.  Built before the automobile, it has the ambience provided by elegant old buildings and arcades that connect the streets.  Wisely, the city “fathers” blocked off a couple of connecting streets so that a network of walkways and pedestrian paths connects the center of the city and attract the city’s residents and visitors alike.  This is what most cities, large or small, covet in their redevelopment efforts.  The public “investment” is matched by retail stores and services and professional offices that are supported in part by an old fashioned public market similar to the West Side Market in Cleveland—specialized vendors in glorious old buildings and lining outdoor stalls.  In Leeds, the newer immigrants from across Europe, and Asia, have set up shop in these areas, providing novelty to accompany British history represented by the original venue. But visit these public spaces on Sunday morning or late at night, and, the shops closed, public life recedes into private spaces.  Still, it’s an outcome to be sought by other communities, and, with numerous empty spots in the public market, even here there’s the hint that retaining this vital public space is a challenge. The automobile arrived in Leeds long ago too, though this traveler arrived by train from London.

Back in London, I traveled by bus and by foot, generally the latter.  Doing so, I found myself lost a couple times as I tried to discover short cuts or decided to do my hour+ morning walk in a different direction.  I must say that London’s age and subsequent decisions have sustained a better representation of public spaces throughout the center city than I had expected.  But, even here, now and then the automobile drew people away from such a lifestyle.

This weekend, I returned to Idaho for the first time in five years, arriving at the Boise airport during a dark, rainy night.  Renting a car, I was disoriented in leaving the area, which has built up so much that I wondered whether the valley had become one big metro area.  A few minutes later, I encountered a few spots still devoid of commercial activity, but I’m sure over time these too will fill in as Interstate 84 linking Boise and its immediate suburbs (Garden City, Meridian) extends to Nampa, and then on to Caldwell.  I visited what passes for “historic” sites from my youth during my stay.  I had planned to stay at the Sundowner Motel in on 10th Street because it allowed me to walk around downtown and on to nearby neighborhoods, maybe even stop for a late beer or glass of wine late at night without using the rental car.  When I came over the bridge late at night, I found the Sundowner closed, and it was the last surviving place to stay without returning to the hotels and motels along the Interstate.  Since both of the habitable motels near Caldwell were booked up, I had to drive on towards Nampa for a place to stay, returning the second night to the closer Best Western Hotel.  And, while five years ago I could find a few places downtown to have a beer,  cup of coffee or a bite at various hours, this time the central area had become almost devoid of such private third places.  The next morning I searched and finally found one coffee shop run by some young folks at the Bird’s Nest who reminded me of local developers in my Cleveland center city neighborhood.  There were a couple taco/Mexican restaurants and two Chinese restaurants left, but often they weren’t open.  The public investment downtown was impressive, with considerable funds to uncover Indian Creek, provide pleasant sidewalks and sitting areas, little parks nestled here and there.  But there was little else to attract people.  The Indian Creek Festival was held while I was there and it did attract several thousand folks to the area for a cardboard boat race, food booths, public service tables, face painting for the kids, etc. but that lasted part of one day.  Then they rolled up the sidewalks again.  At the class reunion I talked with a fellow classmate/prominent city father/retired businessman, and he said they were trying but it was difficult.  I suggested housing above the stores so you could integrate residential with potential retail, but he said the cost was not attractive to developers.  Even the mall between Caldwell and Nampa has lost its most important anchors—Macy’s & Penney’s—to a mall along the freeway closer to Boise.  I drove over to downtown Nampa to see if it was faring better but discovered a similar depressed situation downtown, though it still has a small motel where someone could stay.  Thus, the small town faces the same obstacles as big city central areas and neighborhoods.

I think people our literature promoting third places and vibrant public spaces is actually a search for community.  While the village life persists in more rural areas, perhaps, and also exists in urban areas when density, important “destinations” and attracting public spaces coalesce, it’s an elusive goal in an automobile culture.  Even more rural Cappadocia was beginning to spread out with development to serve the tourists, so our hotel was distant in walking terms from such public spaces.   Only when constrained by history and geography do communities manage to maintain a walking culture over time.

I think we need to look at public spaces less as a cure for what ails communities and as an ingredient that needs to be integrated thoughtfully in planning and sometimes abandoned as impractical.  I still hope Leeds retains the life in its marvelous public market and doesn’t lose businesses in the less traveled areas of its arcades, and it’s likely to be a struggle as people move more towards the outskirts.  One key is integration, not just of people, but of functions.  Delightful public spaces should be developed for the locals, and then attract tourists as an added benefit (with exceptions of course in major tourist destinations).  That means we need residential areas integrated with public spaces, shopping with living, public with private services, uses needed by the old and services attracting the young.  I remember years ago an architect noting that single-purpose neighborhoods force people to “move” as they progress through the life cycle.  A suburb with large homes and no apartments provides no place to downsize.  Old neighborhoods with houses filled by families with 12 kids a century ago had to be converted to multiple apartments to survive, so it’s not a new occurrence. 

Perhaps we need to revisit the concept behind the “7-mile town” that I recall studying in my geography class a half century ago.  When man traveled by horse, a town, or stop of some sort was needed about every seven miles.  Thus, many rural areas are dotted with the remnants of such 7-mile towns.  On my last trip to Nebraska, Bayard, the community near where I was born and went to school illustrates this.  Bridgeport, the county seat of Morrill County in western Nebraska has fared better because it still has a “reason for being,” the government offices an courthouse.  Some 15 or so miles away, Bayard, has no such “reason,” having lost its sugar beet factory and almost all of its retail establishments, leaving a bedroom community of folks who now travel the highway to Sottsbluff for their commercial needs. In between are other small 7 mile towns, or corner stops equivalent to convenience stores in cities today, e.g., Moomaw Corners (wiped off the map), Minatare, with a bar or two).  The automobile eliminated the “need” to settle, or stop, in such places.

I wonder if we need to ask whether there’s a distance between “needed” third places or public spaces for congregating.  And how do we learn what these distances are.  When I was a graduate student at the University of Washington in Seattle in the late 1960s, the university had given up on trying to get students to walk where they wanted them to, on concrete sidewalks planned to connect buildings in an aesthetic manner. So, when students (and probably a few faculty too) wore a new path through the grass or dirt, they laid down a patch of asphalt.  Thus, the network looked like patchwork, but it did work, meeting the needs of students, who knew where they wanted to go and didn’t need it “planned” for them.  Maybe this scenario could work for designing third places in urban areas, particularly when buildings are demolished and vacant lots start to dot the landscape.  When people “loiter,” they are asking for a public space for congregating.  When a group decides a vacant lot would be a good garden, given permission or not, they’re seeking not just vegetables and cheap food but a place to create community within their physical community.   There have to be other, additional strategies for making the decisions, and such a combination of “bottom up/grassroots” indicators and “top down/planning-and-communication theory” might just fit the bill.  We always need to remember that the quest for community is a search not only for a sense of belonging but also for a communication network, however big or small it is.