Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Remembering the “Built Environment”


When I last visited the town where I spent my teenage years in Idaho, I stayed at a motel downtown and planned my morning walk to pass by a couple places where we had lived, including the house I lived in while attending junior and senior high school.  As I turned the corner, expecting to see the little, modest house I lived in as a 13 year old, I encountered a parking lot for the Mormon Church.  The house was gone, and I somehow felt cheated.  How dare they dispose of an artifact from my youth!  But, of course, it was hardly a monument or memorial site, just a house with little meaning to developers other than what the current market would support.  I have a few photos of the place but otherwise it only exists as a memory.

I think of this when I’m in neighborhood meetings where residents are clamoring for the destruction of dwellings no longer occupied and deteriorating, dragging down the value of others’ homes in the area, people argue.  But I think, “Will the little house that’s been replaced by a vacant lot down the street be the encounter of a visitor trying to revisit their youth?”  

When do we value slices of the “built environment,” and does the “market” always decide? Today is September 11th, and my Facebook “news feed” is filled with photos recollecting the Twin Towers from every angle.  I remember when I went to the top with my mother on a trip long ago, and when I last had a chance to go again with Charlie and Angie the summer before the terrorist attack, but we deferred the opportunity since we had already gone to the top of the Empire State Building and had limited time.  

After World War II, much of Europe was in ruins, but, as tourists visiting those delightful old cities today know, much of the past was rebuilt, using as much of the original structures as was feasible and duplicating others, almost as if using the original blue prints.  Now, you can argue that this was certainly a wise decision for a couple reasons.  All those tourists in London, Berlin, Dresden and Paris do not come to see new housing developments.  They want to see the past, rebuilt or not.  So the decision to remember by replicating the past was a good economic decision.  Second, these cities, and countries, are the homes of authentic cultures whose inhabitants want to retain, sustain and support even as they live in a fast-moving time.  So, the decision to rebuild this “built environment” makes sense both economically and culturally.

But what about the built environment in America today?  We certainly protect key places by proclaiming them national historic sites, or even local ones.  But how much thought do we give this and is it only found in the big cities?  

Late this summer, I built a road trip around a conference that began in Chicago.  While there, members of the Urban Communication Foundation took a beautifully-narrated boat trip to witness the celebrated architecture that city has retained.  The trip that followed took me to Wisconsin, Minnesota, South Dakota, and Nebraska.  I had lived in two of those places and visited the others.  In addition to seeing old friends, I tested my memory of the “built” and “natural” environments not seen in many a year.  I have the fewest memories of Wisconsin, so I’ll have to skip those stops for comparisons.  But I spent three years living near the campus of the University of Minnesota while I got my doctorate, so I should remember a lot of that “built environment.”  I had not been back to the campus but once since leaving in 1975, so a lot of water has passed under the bridge.  And my memories were of a 20 something for the most part, not of a child.  Thank God for GPS, or I would have had trouble navigating around the university campus.  They did not change the basic quad around which one of the libraries, a major hall used in some graduations and the student union were located.  But outside of that, the landscape had changed dramatically.  I knew that Murphy Hall, where I had a grad student office and spent most of my time, had been gutted and rebuilt so that change was expected.  And I walked over to Dinky Town, where I had an apartment in the student ghetto, discovering that only the McDonald’s looked familiar in the retail environment.  Nothing monumental or memorial to retain here, though the redevelopment was quaint and comfortable, much more inviting that I recall from my student days.

After a stop to visit with friends in western Minnesota from my Peace Corps days, I pushed my driving to spend the night in Rapid City, South Dakota.  The last time I visited this city, I was a child of perhaps six or seven years old.  And I had only a couple memories, including one in the city.  I remember visiting a Dinosaur Park with huge animals made out of concrete.  Somewhere I have a photo of my brother and me sitting on the head of a three-horned dinosaur, Triceratops.  As I drove in I noted the elongated head of what looked like the largest dinosaur on the top of one of the mountains framing the town, an Apatosaurus .  So this memory still had a physical referent.  The GPS didn’t give directions but I found my way up to the park, discovering it had been established in 1936, so it was fairly “new” when I visited around 1950 or 1951.  It’s still fun, and I was pleased that this memory had been respected.  I guess concrete and steel weathers well, and its potential for tourists persisted.  So, one memory checked, I moved on, stopping at Mt. Rushmore, where the faces haven’t changed but the viewing area has been modernized to serve a much larger volume of visitors.  I’ve always thought the U.S. Park Service did a splendid job, and they have here as well.  I’m not sure how accurate my childhood memory was since in the intervening years I also saw “North by Northwest” and have seen countless images of the same area.  But it’s comforting.  Next stop, Chief Crazy Horse, the mountain-size project where a family is carving out an image of the chief on a horse.  When my family visited here more than a half century ago, I recall little more than a small gift shop and a little dirt being scrapped off of the mountain.  I remember my dad questioning if they were going to get much done.  Now, the shop has been turned into a major destination with a museum, video, shops and restaurants, and the face and head of the chief can clearly be seen.  I’m sure I won’t be alive to see the completion, so someone else will have to test their 2012 memory against that image some day.  My route on to Nebraska took a detour to test another image by driving through Custer State Park.  As a child I remember our family coming up on a clearing and seeing a huge herd of buffalo.  Our photos of the site were lost, but I thought I’d see if I’d come across any buffalo this time.  Now the park rangers know how to track the herd and can tell you where to spot them, which I did.  The herds looked smaller this time around, but it was still fun. This time my memory of the “natural environment” checked out, more or less.

Next stop, my birth place in western Nebraska.  I’ve been back twice in 20 years and had the good fortune to cruse the countryside checking out sites verified by a cousin from the Jeffres side of the family and another relative from the McCracken side, both equally knowledgeable about where things “used to exist.”  Anyone who thinks that the countryside is static, only the cities changing, is wildly off the mark.  For the most part, almost everything from my childhood in the country has been replaced or removed.  But I did pass by the sites of homes where I once visited both sets of grandparents, the landscape where my great grandfather homesteaded, and the handful of houses where I had lived, including the Middlestead place where ol’ Doc Palmer came from town to deliver me.  Moomaw Corner, the equivalent of a corner store in the city, was completely gone.  The country school where I went to kindergarten was part of a corn field.  And the little town of Bayard where I went to the first grade is now largely a bedroom community with a main street of empty store fronts.  If I remember my geography theories correctly, settlements in the pioneer days were located about every seven miles or so, the distance a horse traveled in a day.  When cars came in, they didn’t go that much faster but certainly eliminated the need for many stops.  I recall going to dances with my parents at a little town called Minatare, and it was a considerable drive, as was a trip to see a movie at a drive in closer to Scottsbluff.  My cousin said she recalled going 25 miles an hour or thereabouts because the roads were so poor and the cars shook so much.  Now, of course, it’s a modern highway and takes no time at all.  So the build environment of the past doesn’t serve the same economic purpose and must be “adjusted” to survive.  That often means it’s abandoned or demolished.  And with it go the memories of a childhood.

I left Nebraska as a child, so I didn’t see the little changes through the years that led to what exists today.  Those who stayed know the history and can reflect with context.  I think about my time in Cleveland and the changes I’ve witnessed, and how the “built environment” has changed, or not changed here.  I’ve certainly seen lots of institutions disappear, largely for economic reasons, but I also see the persistence and survival of much of the community because so many appreciate the values and history represented by such substantial buildings and institutions as the West Side Market, now celebrating its centennial, and churches dating back even further.  But I suspect we’re tearing down lots of “modest houses” that are the memories of many childhoods.

At some point, you realize that your memories are all that survive of chunks of your past (at least for those of us born before the era of Facebook).  You can “go home” again, but it might be a parking lot.

Leo W. Jeffres
Sept. 11, 2012.


Friday, June 8, 2012

Broadway, Politics and Marlo Thomas


When I learned of the cast of “The Best Man” a while back, I recalled a thought I’d had many years ago.  When I retire, if I want to go see a couple plays on Broadway, I’m just going to fly there and see them.  Well, I retired January 1 and decided to do just that.  Besides, one of the plays I wanted to see, in addition to the Gore Vidal revival, was “The Columnist,” with John Lithgow.   The third play was “Other Desert Cities.”  

All three had great elements of the media and journalism, as well as celebrated actors.  The “Best Man” cast John Larroqukette as a traditional liberal running in the primary against an opportunistic, ambitious, young pragmatic conservative opponent.  Their wives are fittingly appropriately, flawed, to match their husbands.  The young wife is vulgar and scheming, in a role parallel to her hubby, played by Eric McCormack of “Will and Grace” fame.  And a delightful Candice Bergan is the long suffering, estranged wife of our liberal, who loses in the end (sorry to give away the plot to a 1960 play but you knew the liberal had to lose in this era of Romney and the Tea Party).  But, since Gore Vidal is the author (and, he is still alive), the conservative loses too, thankfully.  Given the results of the Wisconsin recently and the Walker win this week, the fiction result was still welcome.  James Earl Jones presides over this delightful, witty exchange as a sage enjoying his last hurrah.  And it’s all played for the media in the 1960s.  Loved the play, and the small but marvelous performance of Angela Lansbury, whose casting as the aging (Angela is in her 80s) politico with a feel for the traditional women’s vote is delightful.

That was a nice antidote to the Wisconsin Tea Party win, but the next day I saw “The Columnist,” based on the life of Joe Alsop, whose column I recall reading as a young journalist in college in the 1960s.  I was probably a bit more conservative then, but I didn’t know the full story of Alsop, a closeted gay man compromised by communists while visiting Moscow who almost idolized John Kennedy and wielded considerable clout and power in administrations up to Johnson as he beat the drums for the Vietnam War.  I lived through this era, so I knew the cast of characters and key events well: the escalation of the war, the U.S. sponsored Diem coup, the Cold War fear of dominos falling—a concept the play says Alsop coined, The Kennedy assassination, and student protests into the Nixon era.  John Lithgow is excellent, as expected, but the rest of the cast was fine as well.  The changing views of gays and the complex personality of Alsop were nicely done.  

Then we come to politics of the 1980s and 1990s, and a different war, in the Middle East.  I have wanted to see Stockard Channing since seeing her in “The House of Blue Leaves.”  She was outstanding in a strong cast.  I didn’t know this story, cast in Palm Springs, where the long-depressed daughter and younger son are visiting their conservative, ex-actor, ex-screen writer parents and their alcoholic loser aunt.  The setting, which the lady sitting next to me said was just like those in Palm Springs, was a southwest living room cast in white.  Each cast member has at least a couple opportunities to “explode” with strength and power, even if it unveils vulnerability at times.  The daughter has written a book, a six-year project that proves she had a second book in her and was emerging from her time in depression.  Not long into the play we learn the book is not fiction but a story of the family, keying in on the lost son who died, committed suicide after being involved in a war-protest bombing which inadvertently killed a homeless veteran.  Eventually Stockard reads the manuscript and they beg, threaten, urge, try to convince the daughter that the publicity will destroy the family (if anybody remembers them from the era of Ronny and Nancy) when it appears in a magazine excerpt and later book form.  And it will destroy the trust they’ve long granted their daughter.  Loved the liberal-conservative exchange on politics, even if the terms seem a bit dated in our “Tea Party” extreme right-wing shift of Republicans era (no attempt to be objective in this blog, folks).  Eventually, the living-room drama explodes as Stacy Keach (the father who refuses to read the manuscript at all) says he cannot hold a secret any longer.  Now, stop reading if you intend to see the play, as the provisos usually say.  Rather than turn away her son when he comes to them for help, as the daughter charges, Stockard actually cleaned him up and whist him away to some safe place from which he then went on to continue life in hiding, never again seeing his parents, though calling now and then for a moment of silence on the phone.  I wasn’t expecting this ending, and it provided quite a dramatic end to the play.  Loved the acting, and I stayed afterwards to get an autograph of Stockard Channing.  

What’s Marlo Thomas have to do with this?  As it turns out, she was the lady sitting next to me in the play.  I thought it was her but never said anything because they deserve privacy, and I wasn’t 100% sure.  Then a young lady also waiting for an autograph outside confirmed it and started talking about “That Girl.”  The play did involve an old medium, the book, which also figured nicely in my only other “academic“pursuit” on the trip to NYC, visiting the Morgan Library, where I saw (behind glass) a Gutenberg Bible, an original score in Mozart’s hand writing, an early dictionary, and more, all in a setting fit for a robber baron.  They knew how to live, that’s for sure, even if the contrast with Palm Springs was visually dramatic. 

Monday, March 12, 2012

A Report from Down Under


The fifth and final country of my trip around the world was Australia.   My two days in Sydney coincided with perfect “spring weather,” making my tendency to see a city by walking much more pleasant.  I walked from my hotel in Potts Point to the famous opera house on the shore, and I later decided to jump on the double decker bus as a good way to get my bearings.  Sydney easily could be nominated as a “communicative city” for providing marvelous paths, parks and comfortable “third places.”  It’s also very expensive, with $4 small coffees and average lunches going for high prices.  It didn’t get any better as I proceeded through Australia, and even a New Yorker I ran into said the high cost surprised even a Manhattan native.  But I enjoyed everything nonetheless.  

Next, a plane ride took me to Uluru (also called Ayers Rock), the big red sandstone rock that’s famous and easily a magnet for photographers.  The spring weather turned to intense heat, with a temperature of about 93 degrees when we arrived.  All of the hotels are in a circle a short ride from the airport, and they share a free shuttle around the circle, and to and from the airport.  We landed early afternoon, and, not wasting any time, I signed up for the evening dinner, “sounds of silence,” situated in the outback.  Two busloads of folks paying $167 each were driven to a remote spot where tables of eight were set with white table cloths located on a red sandstone clearing surrounded by a scattering of trees and brush.  Leaving the bus, we climbed a small hill to be greeted with glasses of champagne and an entertaining fellow playing the didgeridoo, a native wooden instrument operated with his breathing and nimble hands.  A glass or two of wine or beer and some h’orderves of crockadile, kangaroo and an Australian fish put us in the mood for our continued journey down another slope to the dining area.  It was a night of more wine, a buffet of lamb, fish, and all the fixings, and the sounds of conversation, plus a brief amusing monologue about the stars on a cloudy night once we finished desert and a glass of port.  I was the old guy at a table with a couple of 30+ hikers from Britain with an ecological attitude and two 25-35 ish couples from Sydney, one Asian, the other a Greek fellow and his “English” wife.  Learning I was from Cleveland, the two fellows asked what team I rooted for.  I forgave the one fellow for being a Heat-LeBran James fan.  When everyone was completely quiet, the only sound was wind through the brush.  A delightful evening.

I also had signed up for a sunrise trip, so I had to be ready by 5 a.m. for a small van and the guide to take me and nine other folks to another remote area where they offered us blue berry muffins, coffee and tea while the cook prepared an egg and bacon sandwich on a fresh breakfast muffin.  Later as the sunrise emerged he brought up delicious “bush bread” baked in a small oven used in the outback.  After the sun rise, we were driven to Uluru itself for a two hour talk, walk and drive around Uluru in the National Park area.  Our guide was more than just knowledgeable.  By 10:30 a.m. we were back at our hotels, in time for what would normally be rising temps, but it turned out to be a mild day with sprinkles that are rare this time of the year (la Niña, again).  My last night there I treated myself to more red meat than I’ve eaten in a year—a barbecue of crock and kangaroo on skewers along with sausages of buffalo, emu, and beef.  I gave half away since I’m not used to eating that much heavy meat.  The only thing I didn’t try was a camel burger—just ran out of time.  Since introduced a century ago, the camels have multiplied in the wild and are a pest of sorts.

The next day I traveled by bus to Kings Canyon, where I was challenged to walk the rim.  I was the “old guy” and the guide said I should try the first 200 steep steps and see if it was for me.  I had to stop numerous times but I made it up the 500 initial steps and then on through the three and a half hour trek through the top rim of the canyon and back down to our bus.  Along the canyon walk we stopped at the “garden of Eden,” where some folk’s skinny dipped.  I didn’t.  After the canyon, we were driven to Alice Springs, where there’s a sizeable aborigine presence.  I was only there two nights and I mostly just walked around, having had enough tours for a while.

Next, a flight took me to Cairns, for reef, rainforest and relaxation.  The first day I took a tour up a rainforest area where I had a chance to “hug a koala,” as they say, and pet a few tame kangaroos.  We also toured a rainforest area, then went up to a largely tourist village surrounded by the forest.  And I came down on a cable car that took about two hours.  Had a good time, despite a few showers while I was in the cable car.  Next day, I took a tour to the Australian Great Barrier Reef after listening to the options of a transplanted Canadian tour vender.  I’m not the greatest swimmer and this particular tour included a submerged glass bottom boat as well as opportunities to try your hand at several other things.  I snorkeled in the beginners’ area long enough to see the coral and colorful fishes.  After a buffet lunch and more opportunity to get sunburned, the boat headed back to shore on the hour and a half trip.  Another good day.   And I ended as I began with a lot of walking and eating, plus a few Australian beers and glasses of wine.  The esplanade winds its way as a boardwalk along the water, with a swimming pool and parkland integrated into it.  Sidewalk cafes line the street.  The architecture of the area is quite charming, reminding me of several styles from other cultures, with sidewalks under second story structures.  On my last day I took in a first-run movie (Safe House) to get out of the heat since I had already had to check out of my hotel room (A$16.50, or US$17.50-$19, depending on the poor exchange rate).  

Political Controversy Follows Me, Dominates News Media

Almost without exception, I arrived in countries with local political scandals that consumed the media.  The exception would be Ethiopia, where I didn’t have much time or access to media and didn’t see much in the line of politics.  But Indian newspapers and television news were dominated by a local political scandal in one of the most important regions.  Then the Philippines provided the best example with its wall to wall television coverage of the impeachment trial of the chief justice of the Supreme Court; here I found people talking about it, and I even tried to attend one of the hearings but, without a cell phone to be contacted would not know when to be let in (one of my former students is a lawyer who knew one of the Congressman and she put my name on a guest list when she learned of my interest, which was considerable).  When I get home I’m going to seek out more on what’s happened---It was fascinating, much like the Bork and Watergate hearings, if that means anything to those under 50.  In Cambodia, I heard complaints that the media were too frightened of the government and Vietnamese influence next door to offer critical coverage of the government.  And in Australia I arrived as the Labor Party was having a leadership struggle that, from what appeared to the non-critical eye was as much personality as policy.  I’ve missed my daily newspaper habit that I had hoped would be fed with copies of the International Herald Tribune, but I had difficulty locating it except in the Philippines.  For a long time I’ve thought American regional media (like the Plain Dealer) focused on national and local news to the extent that a well-rounded international roundup suffered.  But, after this trip, I guess I think the generalization applies around the world as represented by this non-scientific sample.  I recall the research from years ago, and found myself seeing it verified in the local media.  Disaster continues to promote news worthiness from abroad (where ever the local is).  Later in Hawaii, I enjoyed reading the Star Advertiser, which had a two-page broadsheet section with international stories numbered to match a map.   

 I ended my trip to Australia with a long flight out of Cairns to Guam (slated to leave at 1:10 a.m. but not getting out the gate until about 2 o’clock), arriving at 6:45 a.m., too late for the direct flight to Honolulu.  Instead, I was put on the “puddle jumper,” which left at 9 a.m. and hopped from one island in Micronesia to another, stopping at five islands between Guam and Honolulu.  I decided to “make lemonade”  when given this 14-hour lemon of a trip rather than fret about the time, so I took photos of each enchanting island where pictures were allowed (one was a military base) or it wasn’t too dark.  Along the way we encountered lots of local folk in colorful dress, many wearing leis as they do in Hawaii, as well as backpackers, surfers and trekkers going from one island to another.  The views from the air are marvelous, shades of coral, atolls, small islands and beautiful bays on islands covered with lush green rainforest.  Because the islands are a territory and not a state, the security measures took almost as much time as the flying.  Folks in steerage had to take their carry ons and leave the plane at each stop while security folks came in and “swept” the cabin.  We folks in business could stay as long as we got out of the way and identified our luggage.  So a 45 minute stop interrupted flights lasting about 50 minutes to an hour and a quarter.  The local TSA folk were actually quite efficient, as was the Continental/United flight crew (their 14-hour day must have been grueling, since each leg required them to go through all the procedures, serve drinks and food, all done with cheer and grace.  My departure from Cairns came on the first day the computer systems of United and Continental were fully merged.  And there were a couple hiccups, though it worked out reasonably well.

A Hawaiian Postscript

Honolulu was the sixth stop of my 14-legged flight plan.  Since I crossed the international date line, I experienced two Mondays.   I had not been in Hawaii since an academic conference more than a decade ago.  A former Peace Corps Volunteer from my days in the Philippines generously put me up, and we had a chance to drive around and see the areas where I trained as a Peace Corps Volunteer in Hawaii many years ago.  I didn’t go to the Big Island where I spent the first week or so, but I did see Ewa Beach and Waipahu, the former where I had a sleeping bag on one of the bowling lanes of an old abandoned facility where some of us were billeted.  I also had been given the name of someone at a local brew pub by one of the fellows at my old watering hole in Ohio City, the Great Lakes Brew Pub.  So, of course I had to check out their brew too.  And I had the chance to have lunch with another PCV from my Philippine Group (#28, a I recall).  Loved the fresh guava juice and fruit in Hawaii, and I brought home some Kona coffee and macadamia nut pancake mix.

Sydney, Australia

downtown on a perfect spring day...

the harbor area

local transit

the Opera House from afar

the Opera House close up

their "old arcade," built about the same time as Cleveland's

Uluru (AKA Ayers Rock)


the classic location for the post card shot
the "rock"
a view going around the "rock"
a view of the outback
champagne waiting for us before  dinner in outback near Uluru
dinner under the stars
didgeridoo entertainment
I grilled crock and kangaroo kabobs, emu, buffalo, beef sausage....
the local resort I stayed at, one of six in area
near Uluru at sunrise


coffee in the outback at sunrise...














Kings Canyon (between Uluru and Alice Springs)

first 200 of 500 steps to top of canyon

some more steps

the walker

view along the way

climbing back up

and down again

back up

and down

stopping at Garden of Eden enroute

glimpse of local canyon resident

Alice Springs

bird's eye view of Alice Springs

layout of town

some local residents

Institute for Aboriginal Development